Chain restaurants tighten their grip on Boise

Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor, also serves as unofficial food editor, as he researches and writes our quarterly Match Makers feature and annual Great Northwest Wine Lists Competition. He has filed this report on a disturbing trend in Boise.

This spring, Jon Mortimer closed his downtown Boise restaurant.

In July, Andrae Bopp shuttered his eponymous establishment that was almost in the shadow of the state Capitol building.

Last week, BoDo lost its third locally owned fine dining destination - the 8th Street Wine Company.

Each restaurant prominently featured Northwest wines and local ingredients. In the case of 8th Street, two national chains appear to be thriving on the other side street.

Erik McLaughlin, a Boise high school grad, sold off his wine shop at 8th Street just a few days before deciding to pull the plug on the dining room and his entire operation.

"I don't think it's a reflection of the quality of the restaurants or the way people ran their businesses," McLaughlin said. "It's a reflection of the marketplace. In a tightening economy, people cut back on their spending and luxury items such as fine dining and great wine."

McLaughlin now lives in Pendleton and helps operate Hamley's, a remarkable new steakhouse creating a buzz in Northeast Oregon and Southeast Washington.

Wine Press Northwest will feature McLaughlin and Hamley's in our upcoming Fall issue.

Food Critics

I have to agree that the "Tri-cities" lacks a central focus. A downtown community sure helps give a focus. There are pockets of them spread throughout the cities, but mostly in strip malls, which tend to limit growth. I think having food critics, readers comments or a contest that names the best "pizza" , best "sushi" or food category in the Tri-Cities helps foster productive competition. Competition is always a good thing. One thing I have noticed is that many young people move away from this area, people who might help foster the community. These people that leave to find more excitement in the "Big City", are the backbone of people who invest in the community. (Just my .02 cents.)

Spudnut Shop

That makes sense; no true downtown core to build from. I was not imressed with Bin 20 when I was in the Tri-Cities last. In general I don't like eating in a hotel anyway.

I loved that Spudnut shop as a kid growing up. There used to be one in Sunnyside and Grandview many years ago. After they closed my mom would bring a dozen home whenever she went to the Tri-Cities.

They had a recent article on them a little while ago. I wish I had known they were still open the last time I was in the Tri-Cities and I would have stopped for sure.

Andy, Just to let you know,

Andy,

Just to let you know, Andrae's closed it's doors in Boise, but wait till you see his new address...Walla Walla! You'll have to wait and see what he is up to, but WW is blessed to have his talents in our town (I've been working on him to move to our town for 5 years now...guess the pestering worked!).

Trey

Wine Enthusiast Mention

Hey Trey!

Thought I would give you a shout out for your mention in the new Wine Enthusiast! Paul Gregutt did a column on Walla Walla, and mentioned Sleight Of Hand, as well as Morrison Lane, DaMa, and a few others as interesting tasting rooms to check out in downtown Walla Walla. In case you hadn't seen it, I thought I would let you know.

Cheers!
Tim

Boise Native Restless

In addition to those you mention, we also lost The Milky Way in the past six months. While Red Feather, Cottonwood Grille, The Gamekeeper, Berryhill, Bardenay and Chandlers still offer great food and a decent selection of Fidelitas, Five Star and friends, losing those establishments has limited the variety offered downtown especially towards the upper end with Mortimers and Andrae's. That said, having six serviceable NW wine lists in a one-mile radius is not bad considering the economic woes we've suffered at Micron, Albertsons and HP and continued flight to the suburban areas West of downtown. I see some good things on the horizon with expansion in the Snake River Valley AVA and hopefully local business owners will be able to capitalize on some of that growth and give the PF Changs, Bonefish Grills and Old Spaghetti Factories of the world a run for their money.

"Fine dining" and going out....

It is very sad to see great restaurants closing up while the Red Robin's and Olive Garden's of the world thrive! (No disrespect to either is intended... they are both good at what they do.) My wife and I, living in the Spokane area, love to go out on those rare occasions when we have no kids, at least once a month. We have also cut back on going out. Not because of the economy, but because we are constantly disappointed in the quality of food and by restaurants who have no clue how to properly serve wine!

This weekend, we saw a fabulous concert downtown at a new upscale lounge that featured reknowned New York jazz guitarist Peter Bernstine. The music was incredible and more than worth the $10 ticket price. The food and wine? Not so successful. Our fish entree was so overcooked that it was rubbery, and we suffered from gastrointestinal distress all night long. The supposed grilled chicken caesar salad came with cold chicken (probably leftover from the day before) and a dressing that I would not have identified as "caesar" if I hadn't read the menu. It took 20 minutes to bring us two glasses of water. The wine list was completely pathetic, with 5 by-the-glass red pours. The best thing on it was Red Diamond merlot, followed by Yellowtail shiraz. They were $6 a glass for a tiny 4 ounce pour. We drank gin martini's...

A few months back, we ate at an "independent" restaurant in downtown Spokane, Moxie, known for its chef (Ian Wingate), the wine list, and high prices. While the food was pretty good, but not that exciting, our wine, priced at $11 per glass, came to us at approximately 85 degrees. It was literally warm and was barely drinkable. I walked towards the kitchen to ask about a replacement glass, or at least a bowl of ice to somehow cool the wine down, when I noticed that the bottles for their by-the-glass pours were stored on top of a refrigerator next to a deep fryer!!! And, this place supposedly has a wine steward/sommelier... I have no problem spending $100 or more on a nice dinner and a glass of wine, but it had better be good food and the wine should be at least served at normal room temperature, if not at 65 degrees!

Our dining experience before that was at a great new place here in town (Bin 9820) that positions itself as a wine bar with great, inventive cuisine. Their menu is excellent, with some very cool small plates. The food execution was very good, with a few small misses, but overall was pretty good. Their wine list, both by the glass and by the bottle, is very impressive and deep in northwest wines, although our server wouldn't know a zinfandel from a syrah... However, we ordered a bottle, which was pulled from a rack about 15 feet up in the main dining area. Needless to say, it, too, was served to us at about 80 degrees, and we had to "inconvenience" them into bringing us an ice bucket to cool it down to proper drinking temperature.

In short, as wine enthusiasts and foodies, we have a very hard time finding places in the area that know how to serve wine and have a decent selection, and have inventive and well executed menus. This is not to say we don't know of some great places in the area. There are several that are usually very good, such as Okane', Downriver Grill, Picabu Bistro, Bluefish, and several others. But, as the disappointments seem to outnumber the successes, and as prices rise, the temptation is very strong to stay home, invite over a few friends, open something really nice from the cellar, and cook food for ourselves that is better than what we often find while dining out.

It sounds like the Boise restaurants that have closed were really doing a great job, so it is very sad to see them closing their doors. Good restaurants need to be supported and encouraged. There has been some turnover in Spokane as well, although I can't say that I am surprised. The only good part of that is I get to try lots of new recipes from the cookbooks we have collected in our wine travels!

Cheers!
Tim

Food so so..

I have to agree with Tim on eating out. So many are just hit and miss, I'd rather spend 1/3 the money and stay home to enjoy a meal I know will be good. It gets a little old always eating at home, but like you said, the misses are bigger than the successes. I live in the Tri-cities, so the consistently good food hasn't been found. I've lived here a year and still looking for those gems. There is one place here that has hit the mark, Olympic Blue in Kennewick. I still need to make the trek to Picazo in Prosser. Walla Walla has some nice restaurants, but like Prosser, its a 30+ drive for good food that isn't a chain.

Fine dining in Richland

From my Tri-Cities 'hood...

I can unequivocally recommend the sushi and tempura, and anything else Japanese, at Subs 'n Jean, in the Richland Parkway (operated by a Korean couple, "Subs" and "Jean"). They have no wine, but they have no atmosphere, either, so you might as well get it to go (and perhaps call ahead, if you get a copy of the menu -- this is SLOW food).

I also frequent the Italian bakery and lunchspot down the parking lot, Gloria's La Dolce Vita. A bit pricey, but what Italian food isn't?

And the tortas from the taco wagon by Fred Meyer go well with either a syrah or a dry white wine, depending on whether you ask for the hallapinos. The green salsa really rocks.

Katya's has an extensive and reasonably priced wine list, but I haven't supped there in a spell. They have a winemaker dinner with Brian Carter coming up.

And I think the beer at Atomic Ale has improved quite a bit.

P.S.

And the wanton pho at the Vietnamese grocery and "snack bar" in the Uptown Mall.

And I meant "jalapenos".

Fine Dining?

OK those all sound like great places and your list includes a few I have visited. I am not sure if they would be considered fine dining in my book per say. Most of the places you mention are take away places or, as you mention, lack any real décor or knowledgeable staff about wine/food pairing. They are good places to get food, but are not fine dining. Chains seem to have that market corned here in the Tri-Cities at least. Anthony's, PF Changs, and Bonefish are high on the list, all great places, but I am looking for something 'local'. Picazo, and some of the fine dining restaurants I mentioned in Walla Walla all have that unique feel that you are in someplace special.
Another place I neglected to mention were here is Bin 21 over in Pasco. I have been there once and enjoyed the food and atmosphere. They also had a fairly nice wine list.

One unique thing I really enjoy about eating out in WA is the ability to bring your own wine. I recently went back to the midwest for my wedding. One night a group of friend wanted to go out and have steak. I grabbed a bottle of wine which would go well with the steak house we had chosen. I couldn't bring in the bottle due to state laws. Oh well, we had some nice California wine instead.

Tri-Cities dining

I think that the lack of quality Tri-Cities restaurants is the problem with so much here, that being that since there are three cities, there is no central downtowm core, with pedestrian traffic, etc. I think it would also help if the local newspaper (ahem) would cover the local dining scene. I have heard good things about Olympic Blue in Kennewick, and yes, Bin 20 has it going on, if you don't mind driving to the airport and walking a long way through a hotel lobby. There also is the Blue Moon in historic downtown Kennewick.

I obviously wasn't eating when I wrote "fine dining", since my tongue was in my cheek.

Also, I forgot to mention the Spudnut Shop. That was a chain, but apparently now it's the only one in existence.

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