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Thinking inside the box

Braiden Rex-Johnson has an article in Pacific Northwest magazine about boxed wines, in which she reviews some of the better ones and the thought processes behind using this alternative to bottles and corks.

What strikes me is why anyone would not trust a reputable winery that boxes some of its wines. In Washington, Tefft Cellars in the Rattlesnake Hills was the pioneer in this area, followed by Washington Hills/Avery Lane then Powers Winery.

Box wines are a fantastic concept with premium table wines because they save money (they typically run about $3 to $5 per bottle), take up less space than bottles and stay fresh longer. Joel Tefft says his Cab-Merlot will stay fresh for up to 18 months. No air can get into the bag because it's vacuum-sealed; thus it shrinks as wine comes out.

A few years ago, we tested some box wines, pouring a glass every few weeks and mixing them in blind with wines fresh out of bottles. We found some oxidation issues after about eight weeks. Frankly, though, if you aren't going to drink a five liter box (just under four bottles) over a several-week period, then you probably should not look at box wines.

However, everyone I know who has tried a premium box wine from Washington loves the fact that they can quickly pour a glass of wine while making dinner, etc. Airlines love them because of weight issues. Restaurants love them because of the small space they take and the lower costs of by-the-glass pours.

Bag-in-a-box wines have a bad reputation because of the cheap California plonk that has come in that format for decades. But cheap California plonk also has come in bottles.

It's what's inside that matters, not the format. So don't hold back on trying a premium Washington wine just because it's in a box.

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