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A cautionary tale of overpriced wines
A now-former reader recently sent me the following email:
-
Please unsubscribe my email address. You have done a great job with the weekly newsletter. However, the wine industry in Washington state has changed so much - and not to my tastes. Basically, I am tired of hearing about yet another boutique winery opening (started by a retired doctor, etc.) with the accompanying sky-high prices. The book, Families of the Wine: Seasons Among the Winemakers of Southwest France, had an interesting line about boutique (garage) vintners. In an interview with a full-fledged winery, the winemaker noted how easy it was to make great wine from only the best grapes and for only a few cases. The real skill was creating wine from varying quality grapes in larger amounts. I agree.
I moved to Seattle almost 20 years ago. Just as Seattle has changed immensely, so has the wine world and the industry in Washington state. I think Seattle and the industry was more fitting of a Tom Stockley view. He was more appreciative of value and quality in wine and portrayed that to his readers.
After the email, we exchanged a couple more messages. Basically, he hadn't grown tired of our Wine of the Week column - but rather, the entire Washington wine industry and its emphasis on superpremium production.
This isn't necessarily the time to argue that point, as I do think a number of producers focus on great values (Columbia Crest, Covey Run, Precept, Snoqualmie, Barnard Griffin and Ste. Michelle are but a few examples).
Rather, I think he makes some important points not only about sectors of the Washington wine industry, but also Oregon and British Columbia, all of whom are pricing themselves above a sector of the wine-drinking market. In other words, they are handing an important audience to Australia, California, Italy, Spain, Chile, Argentina and other wine regions that don't mind providing modestly priced wines of solid quality.
At what point does the price of wine keep a region from embracing it? Does the celebration of expensive wines create snob appeal rather than accessibility? Do we want to be known as an area that loves wine - or prefers to keep it only for those who can afford it?
That's a difficult line to walk.
- By aperdue at Jul 11 2008 - 5:52pm
- Washington
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Northwest wines vary in price.
Well, duh. No one really cares whether this individual chooses to remain on your email list, and his reason makes little sense. The email, WPNW and your blog regularly cover wines in all price ranges; one can read or not any of that coverage. I choose what to read in a given publication based on my interests; there is no publication that will ever solely include only my interests. Again, well duh.
But that is not really the issue of your post; it concerns whether sectors of the NW wine industry are pricing themselves out of a portion of the market. The answer is, of course. That's the way capitalism works, and some will certainly price themselves out of business as too many of the high priced boutiques emerge.
I don't recall if it was you or Berger - I think it was Berger - who reported on a new joint venture in CA awhile back that was going to produce a wine to be priced around $50-$60. No wine yet, nothing to be evaluated as to the quality, but the price was already determined. And the buyers will buy it because it is in the price range that they are looking for. It may be worth it, maybe not.
That is a different buyer than those of us who are simply looking for good wine to enjoy, at a reasonable price. That is also a different reader of WPNW, who will find some of your articles of greater interest than will I. But not many, since your correspondent is incorrect as to an emphasis on unattainable wines.
As to the high priced sector of the NW wine industry handing an audience over to remote regions, that is arguable. You mentioned some value NW producers above, but that is the tip of the iceberg. The list is endless: Sageland, Hogue, Kestrel, Chandler Reach, Kiona, Waving Tree, Cascade Cliffs, Syncline, Winter's Hill, Kramer, Elk Cove - and that is just from a mental trip down the highways. There is no reason to buy from outside the PNW except for appreciation of the differences in the wines from those areas.
The success of the PNW wine industry has little to do with the boutique wineries. They are of interest to some - a Leonetti is to be cherished (if Leonetti could really be considered boutique) - for an occasional splurge or the high rollers. But that portion of the industry is, as you point out, a sector with snob appeal. That isn't the appeal of wine to most of us.
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Price of Wine
I think for most part new wineries need to set a price point to allow them to be apart of the game and also pay their operating expenses. Opening a new wineries is extremely expensive, typically without sales until the following Spring with whites and maybe an additional year for reds. Then their is getting your name out there and marketing. Now I agree there is a price point on a good bottle of wine, and some will demand more price due to availability. For the new winery its a fine line. There are several great buys out there from $10-16. Many of the wineries listed in previous posts are established ones with a following and good distribution. Some have to be sought out, but you know where to find them if you want.
There are some regions in the NW where you will pay more for a bottle of wine. Its unfortunate, but as areas become wine destinations, the marketing of wine changes. On the other hand, thats one reason appellations are created. As an area grows in status, one group of wineries will push for $50 plus a bottle and others will keep up with the Jones.
I think it depends on what category of wine you drink and who are describing. Most casual wine drinkers will drink in the $10 less range venturing some into the $20-30 range. They will see people who buy more expensive wines for the connoisseurs and a different class of wine drinker. (Sometimes its simple math. Hmm an ultra-premium bottle for $120 or a case of premium wine for $120.) I think the most expensive bottle of wine I have had has been in the $45-50 range. The most I have paid for myself has been in the $40 range. There are so many choices out there in the price range I like, I gone much above it. Plus when I really find a wine I like, i try to buy two bottles so when I get back home and drink one, I have one in the hole. Then I drink that one and I kick myself for not buying a case.
Andy, I am trying to answer your question in the original post, so yes the celebration of expensive wines does create snob appeal rather than accessibility, but it depends on wine category and the buyer.
David
Chas
Charles Smith seems to have the right attitude. I haven't tried the $15 Boom Boom Syrah, but the $12 Holy Cow Merlot (2006) belies the price. There is a lot going on in this wine for a $12 bottle, and it is not a mouthful of oak. Holy Cow is a good name, I think. I don't know how far it is distributed, or what the production is, but my guess is that he has distribution on the east coast, since the label says simply, "Washington State," which itself, a state called Washington, will be a surprise to many on the east coast, never mind that there are multiple appelations in "the other Washington."