The Wine Knows

Sunday night provided me with another example of what living in wine country means.

My wife, Traci, and I drove from the Tri-Cities to Prosser for a remarkable winemaker dinner.

It’s impossible to determine which was more impressive — the wines produced by Kay Simon and Clay Mackey at nearby Chinook or the culinary expressions of Frank Magaña.

Magaña told his guests at the sold-out event that this was the first winemaker dinner at Picazo 7 Seventeen.

Well, he and his friendly staff set the bar incredibly high.

Magaña arrived last fall and opened Picazo 7 Seventeen, an art-filled restaurant in a historic downtown building. Its ambiance would not be out of place in Portland’s Northwest District nor on Seattle’s Capitol Hill. And Magaña’s talent would be warmly received in either neighborhood.

The evening began at 5 p.m. with a social hour of appetizers paired with Kay’s delightful rosé and balanced Chardonnay.

Dinner opened with what Traci quietly exclaimed was “the best crab cake I’ve ever had!” and joined by perhaps the best Semillon I’ve ever enjoyed.

Next came Chilled Melon & Roasted Tomato Soup with organic mixed greens. The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc provided just the right acidity and was far from tart.

In my mind, the most marvelous pairing came with the third course — the Chinook 2006 Cabernet Franc alongside the Halibut Cioppino and Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes. The halibut was phenomenal, and the juiciness of the fruit-forward Cab Franc showed why this underrated Bordeaux grape is such a versatile food wine. Red wine with white fish? Here was proof.

The main course was New Zealand Lamb Two Ways with Potato Gnocchi and Green Beans. Kay provided her 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon and then a special treat — her 1994 Cab. It was fascinating to compare them side by side, and the 18-year-old showed almost no “bottle bouquet.” I couldn't decide which was better. It was kind of like the Ginger vs. Mary Ann debate.

Dessert was a hit with the ladies: Chocolate Espresso Mousse with 2004 Merlot. I’m not a mousse guy, and I rarely order it, but I polished off my chocolate before Traci. (That never happens). Magaña expertly toed the line of chocolate and sweetness. Traci became infatuated with the edible chocolate “tea cup” that the mousse arrived in. After savoring the last bit of her mousse, she asked for a to-go box for the chocolate cup. It became her tasty treat on Monday night.

The price of this event? The evening cost $55 per person, which included everything! I still feel a bit guilty.

Trying to congratulate Magaña was akin to standing in the reception line after a wedding. I waited and said, “You couldn’t have made any money on this!”

He smiled, and replied, “My goal was to give people something to talk about on Monday.”

Mission accomplished. My wife and I may never stop talking about the evening.

Magaña also supports his neighbors. The wine list is about 95% Washington. It is especially heavy on wines produced in the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills. There's one Oregon Pinot Noir — Owen Roe's 2006 Sharecropper.

On the winemaker dinner menu card, he gave thanks to Apres Vin, Green Hills Farm and Four Rose Farm for the local fresh ingredients.

Ultimately, the arrival of talented chefs such as Magaña shows what develops in wine country. Even if those who don't drink wine can appreciate the improved quality of dining options. But were it not for the wine industry that is thriving in this town, Prosser would be known primarily as home to one of the top high school football programs in the Washington state. Go Mustangs!

Several locals told me Magaña’s dining room is doing very well on “industry night” Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. That means Thursdays might be a quieter option — at least for now.

For more information, go to Picazo 7 Seventeen at 509-786-1116.