The Wine Knows

The latest issue of Seattle magazine notes that just 1% of beer consumed in Washington is made in Washington. That means for every bottle of Red Hook opened, 99 bottles of Bud, Miller, Coors, etc., are drunk.

I know I'm doing my part to help these numbers: I can't remember the last time I had a macrobrew. However, I don't limit myself to Washington beer. Between Oregon and Alaska, there are a lot of great microbrews available. And in British Columbia, the regional beer choices are magnificent.

On the wine side of the Northwest beverage cart, Washington's in-state market share is better than beer, though still abysmal: About 20% of the wine sold in Washington is made here. The news is even worse in Oregon: less than 10%.

In my mind, this means two things:

-- Whenever someone tells me they think the Washington wine industry is getting too big, I point out there's plenty of room to grow because regional brands can take more space on merchants' shelves.

-- We need to drink more local wines. The French drink very little wine from outside of their country. Stop in any Italian hill town, and the wine list likely will include choices primarily from a 25-mile radius. Californians are more likely to think beyond their region, but Napa wines dominate in Napa and Sonoma wines have strong market share on their side of the Mayacamas Mountains.

There are plenty of reasons to drink local. Here are my favorites:

-- The Pacific Northwest's states/province are agricultural in nature. We should support our local growers.

-- By their nature, regional products are fresher. This goes for wine, too. It's less likely that a wine from a local boutique producer traveled in the hull of a ship or was stored in a hot warehouse. Thus, the wines will taste better when purchased regionally.

-- It's good for our economy. When someone in Seattle buys a Washington wine, that's more money in local pockets.

-- The wines are darned good. Whether you're in Washington, Oregon, British Columbia or Idaho, you will have an easy time finding well-made wines. The quality starts in the vineyard, and the Northwest has great conditions for world-class wine grapes. Winemakers are better educated, so there are fewer chances for wines to be spoiled after the raw ingredients reach their cellars.

One exception: There is a danger to being geo-centric, however. It is good to try wines from other areas, too. I love Petite Sirah from Napa, Lodi and other areas. I adore Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, and I appreciate the fruit-driven flavors of Russian River and Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs. Alsatian Pinot Blanc? Count me in. Mosel Riesling? You bet. I would even drink Burgundy if I could afford it.

To really appreciate the world of wine, we need to balance our local wines with those from other regions. One of my fondest wine-tasting memories is a trip Melissa and I took to the Golan Heights Winery in occupied Syrah (the region has been in Israeli hands since 1967). Part of it was the experience, and part of it was the wine. I still purchase an occasional case of Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon from Champion Wine Cellars in Seattle, one of the few outlets I've found for it.