Adventures in Merlot and great summer recipes....

In the past week, we have been on a merlot "binge", and have had some surprising revelations! It started with a favorite dish of ours, a grilled chicken caprese' dish that is perfect with a fruit forward merlot or a chilled rose. Last week, we had it with a "simple" Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot, and it was a very nice pairing. A few days later, we decided to open something from the cellar - a 2003 Stags Leap Wine Cellars SLV Block 2C Napa Valley Merlot (about $50). This was a wine club only wine, a vineyard designate from Stags Leap's own vineyards, and one we hadn't tried before. Upon decanting, the first thing we noticed was the amber color at the rim. Of course, that surprised us since the wine is only 5 years old. The first taste was a total let-down. The fruit had already faded, although there were ample tannins, and it had fairly strong acids. It came across as a little bitter, yet weak. Our first thought? The Columbia Crest, at $8.99, totally blew it away! We were very disappointed, to say the least. Two nights later.... a little concerned that these wines were already over-the-hill, we opened one of our Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 2004 Napa Valley Merlot's ($40) to pair with some grilled ribeyes. While it wasn't over the hill, it seemed strangely diluted, even though the color was a very deep purple with no signs of oxidation. It was beter than the rare 2003 a few nights earlier, but it was another "bust", in my opinion, from a legendary winery - and from different vintages. It was a total buzz kill with some killer steaks. Frustrated, and not wanting to waste a fabulous steak on such a mediocre wine, I grabbed a Tagaris 2002 Arete' Vineyard merlot from the cellar, purchased at the winery for around $25, if memory serves me correctly. It totally killed! Brilliant cherry and plum fruit, with a hint of enjoyable "greenness" to it - almost like basil or mint or something. The acids were perfect for food and the structure was there for another 2 to 4 years of aging. I was almost sorry I opened it so soon. The Columbia Valley really is a sweet spot for merlot, which truly is a food friendly, versatile wine.

Anyway..... since these days merlot seems to be a fairly ignored wine, and the prices for top notch merlot are so reasonable, I thought it would be good to hear from others about their favorite merlots and perhaps some great summer recipes that pair well! Since this is a wine blog, and food and wine are passions for most of us, I thought it would be nice to pool our knowledge to make the most of what is shaping up to be way too short of a summer season.

Any volunteers?

Cheers!
Tim

ps.... bring on those recipes. It's grilling season!

4 merlots from a 12-bottle Washington tasting

My wife and I recently hosted a 12-bottle Washington wine tasting for 8 people for the purpose of assisting a local community outreach program. Each person had 3 glasses. We would pour the 4th wine of each flight when everybody had a free glass. All pours were about 2 oz.

June 7, 2008

Flight 1: Some aged wines
#1 92 Tefft Reserve Cab
#2 93 Tefft Cab
#3 94 Tefft Reserve Merlot
#4 97 Kiona Cab (Washington State)

Flight 2: All Merlots
#1 2000 Seven Hills Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard
#2 2003 Januik Merlot Klipsun Vineyard
#3 2005 Leonetti
#4 2005 Cadence Klipsun (technically merlot @ 80% of blend)

Flight 3: Cabs/Cab-based blends
#1 2001 DeLille Harrison Hill
#2 2005 Seven Hills Cab Sauv Seven Hills Vineyard
#3 2003 Quilceda Creek Red Wine
#4 2005 Januik Cab Sauv Champoux

Although I had backups and alternative bottles for all 12, every bottle was sound with no duds in the bunch!!

I occasionally polled the group about favorites, style observations and preferences. Flight 2 in particular presented a good variety of styles for merlot. At the end of the night when asked about overall enjoyment, flight 2 overall was an almost unamimous favorite. As we moved from merlot to merlot, most of the group found it difficult to pick a favorite since they all showed so well. Their favorite changed each time they tasted or retasted a wine.

Some notes on flight 2 merlots:
(all were noses were clean and wines clear - for Tyson)
All were opened and double-decanted just prior to pouring.
All had at least a medium-long finish with palate and finish very closely following the initial nose.

#1 Seven Hills - great balance and terrific mouthfeel.
earth (for me the defining Walla Walla kind), cherries and some dark fruits on both the nose and palate with some pleasing herbal and fall leafy notes. still very good color, not fading at all. Good acidity and freshness factor. excellent. Their wines are so well balanced with the alcohol as usual being below 14% somewhere (label says 13%).

#2 Januik - integrated and well-balanced aromas and flavors of pure and intense dark red fruit with notes of cedar, toast, vanilla. The fruit had a spicy element to it. Full in mouthfeel, expansive fruit, and just plain delicious. There's a reason Mike earned the name Mr. Merlot along the way. Intense color of red/ruby.

#3 Leonetti - exotic and almost flamboyant on the amazingly pure and lifted fruity nose. The darkest of the bunch with a brilliant color leaning into the purple spectrum along with dark reds thrown in. This almost levitated out of the glass. It was slightly lower in acidity than the others in the flight which bouyed the fruit. This did not detract as the finish increased in length and complexity with time in the glass. I think one person would have jumped into the glass if that was possible. Layered in flavors with red fruits complimenting the dominant darker ones. Not showing it's slightly higher alcohol .

#4 Cadence - The lightest in color and mouthfeel (as in no chance for an extracted mess). As usual from Ben, very aromatic from birth probably. Very good balance and flavor in the red fruit spectrum. It was hard to give up one of the previous 3 glasses in order to pour this one, so it did not get the time in the glass it deserved. Over 14% alc but not showing it at all. Ben's last vintage of Klipsun as his Cara Mia Red Mtn. vineyard is now producing fruit.

All were outstanding.

Next time....

Next time, invite me!

Loved the Leonetti observation that the merlot "almost levitated out of the glass". How was the 2001 DeLille Harrison Hill aging?

Cheers!
Tim

2001 DeLille Harrison Hill

The 2001 DeLille Harrison Hill was awesome. Elegant w/power, uber cassis, balance, refined, complex, totally reflective of the ideal cab sauv growing conditions of that particular year. It had a 2 hour decant in a large bottom decanter (as did all the last flight) and was tasted over 5 hours after putting back into the bottle. It has a long beautiful life in which to be enjoyed. I'll follow with notes on the rest of the wines in the near future. As with, the palate and finish followed the nose seamlessly (of course with other nuances along the way).

Grilled Chicken Caprese' Sandwiches

This is one of our favorite summertime meals on the deck. They are easy to make and very tasty. Serve with cantelope/strawberry fruit salad and a nice fruit forward glass of merlot.

Grilled Chicken Caprese' Sandwiches (makes 6, serves 3-6)
1/2 cup light olive oil (Extra virgin tends to be too strongly flavored)
5 Tbs fresh lemon juice
8 garlic cloves, pressed or mashed
1 1/2 Tbs thyme, crushed
1 packed Tbs fresh basil, finely chopped
pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper

Whisk the ingredients above and set aside. Then, prepare

2-3 tomatoes, thinly sliced (18 slices)
8 ounces fresh (buffalo) mozzarella, sliced into 18 slices

Place the tomatoes and the fresh mozzarella in a bowl and pour half of the marinade over the top. Lightly toss and let sit for 30 minutes.

6 1/2" thick boneless chicken breast cutlets (3 large breasts fileted in half)

Place the chicken in a bowl or a one gallon zip lock bag. Add the remaining marinade and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3 ciabatta rolls, sliced in half, or as follows (our favorite)

1 refrigerated tube of pizza dough. Open and spread out. Cut dough into 6 eaqual parts, forming into 4" by 6" pieces. They will be about 1/2" thick. Brush lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic powder and onion powder. Follow package directions for baking, but reduce baking time by 3 minutes. They should barely be browned on the bottom.

While baking, light a charcoal or gas grill. When ready, grill the chicken breast cutlets just until done, about 5 minutes per side. Then, place the ciabatta rolls (lightly brushed with olive oil) cut side down on the grill and grill until grill marks appear, about 2 minutes. If using the pizza dough, place top side down on the grill for about 2 minutes, until nice grill marks appear.

Plate the ciabatta/pizza bread. Top with a piece of chicken, followed by three slices of the mozzarella and three slices of tomato. Drizzle some of the marinade from the tomatoes and mozzarella over each sandwich until gone. Lightly sprinkle with salt if desired. Top with fresh sliced basil if desired (I use lots!) and serve with fresh fruit and plenty of fruit forward merlot for a wonderful summertime meal.

This is a great, simple recipe, and much of it can be made ahead of time. Enjoy!

Cheers!
Tim

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