The Wine Knows

Donitelia Winery, in downtown Yakima, has had a good selection of Italian grapes in their bottles. Though, sadly, at this writing, about the only thing they offer is Sangio in a number of different styles (including a White Sangio that's interesting). I have a couple of their Dolcettos and Barberras. Not bad. Available also is a Primitivo, and a Pinot Grigio.

Don't know why they got away from the others. Maybe it's a temporary outage.

A special treat last year was their blend of Sangiovese Grosso and Cab Sauv. The Sangio-Grosso is the grape used exclusively in Montalcino, Italy, where the big Brunellos are made. This is the only wine in this country I've found that has used that grape. My understanding is it's a different clone than the Sangios we grow around here. And, the Brunellos I've had are far superior to our Sangios, so I'm guessing that's true.

One of the many joys of visiting tasting rooms is some of the interesting discussion that can arise over a specific aspect of wine which in turn leads to a memorable experience. One such experience happened while tasting a zinfandel at the Tildio Winery in Chelan. The lady behind the counter was very knowledgable and a serious student of wine. I happened to mention that it had been determined (through the diligent work of Drs. Meredith and Wolfe cited above) that Zinfandel originated from Croatia and not Italy as long thought. Her rebuke was instant and intense, saying I was totally wrong. From under the counter she pulled out a copy of Jancis Robinson's latest edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine and pointed to a paragraph in the section on Zinfandel that clearly stated that Zin's origin was Southern Italy. With the thought that someone as thorough as Jancis Robinson would not have this right, I ceded the debate.

Flashing forward, I had the fortunate opportunity to speak with Carole Meredith as she was pouring her wine (the excellent 2004 Lagier Meredith Syrah from Mt. Veeder in the Napa Valley) at the NY Wine Experience last fall. I told her the story. She affirmed that there was now no doubt that Zinfandel's home was Croatia and was stunned to learn that the The Oxford Companion to Wine was stating otherwise. Her parting shot was to say she would contact Jancis Robinson, whom she knows, to correct the error.

Regarding the question that started this thread, Witness Tree in Oregon near Salem makes a very nice dolcetto (2004 Dolcetto Remari) from estate fruit. It is a bit more massive than the typical Italian style, exhibiting more extracted fruit, noticable tannins and probably higher alcohol. It sells for $20 through the winery's website.

Good discussion on Italian varietals! There are many about. Search them out and find your favorites. Include with the Zins; Barnard Griffon Resv, Col Crest Resv, and Trio (WW). All very good. If you can track down Tildio (Chelan), Score! Kiona Big O '03, OMG. Very port like. Trio has also a Zin (off dry, like Maryhills' Resv), that is worth buying. T. Wolfes Primativo 06 is good also. On and on. We visited Chelan for their barrel event last weekend and were again amazed by the excellent wines being made there. And there is no more naturally beautiful setting for making wine ANYWHERE. Tsillan Cellars Sangio is as good as any we have tasted anywhere. Tildio, Benson, Lake Chelan Cellars, among a few others are producing as good of wine as Spokane, Yakima Valley, WW, ect. Check them out!

At Tefft Cellars in row #55 (pretty sure) there are mostly Sangiovese piccolo (smaller and darker berries) and a couple of mistakenly included clones of Sangiovese grosso (larger and redder colored). Stop by pre-harvest and I'm sure Joel would let you taste the difference.

Also, there are several older rows of nebbiolo and some newer rows too.

Wish we could get Dr. Wade Wolf of Thurston Wolfe into this conversation. 20 years ago while working with now retired, and world renowned geneticist, Carole Meredith @ UCDavis, Wade identified Zin (California) as Primotivo (Italy.) About 10 years ago, Dr. Meredith, with Mike Grgich's help and lab assistant, Jasenka Piljac, discovered Zin actually originated in Croatia. It is a fascinating story and can be read in Zinfandel, a Croatian-American Wine Story by Jasenka Piljac Zegarac.

Meredith remarks the timing was perfect...any earlier the science wouldn't have been there to work with the lab remotely, and any later the vines would have been gone.

Ron Bunnell does a sangio and barbera on his second label RiverAerie.
They are outstanding and at a great price.

There are a ton of Sangioveses out there (by "a ton" I mean at least 30 or 40). You'll find a smattering of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera and Zinfandel (yes, Zin actually is Croatian, but it should be considered an honorary Italian grape). There's even a bit of Primitivo out there, if you look around. Of course, there's a ton of Pinot Grigio.

Start with Cascade Cliffs, which seems to specialize in Italian grapes. Also check out Abacela in Winston, Ore., which makes a Dolcetto.

And be sure to look up Gino Cuneo Cellars in Carlton, Ore. Gino has long made Italian-style wines, including Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, etc., using Washington and Oregon grapes.

I'm not sure if Cavatappi is still making wine, but it used to make a delicious Nebbiolo. It appears Wilridge Winery in Seattle's Madrona district still makes a Nebbiolo from Klipsun grapes.

And Willis Hall, a small winery in Marysville, Wash. (near Everett), is making Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto.

Those are just starters. I'm sure others will pass along their favorites.