The Wine Knows

I received reports this afternoon of light snow falling on Washington's Red Mountain, continuing the cold and bizarre weather the Columbia Valley has been receiving.

This morning's overnight lows dipped into the high 20s, though a cloud cover prevented too much frost from occurring. Tonight, temperatures are expected to reach as low as 27 degrees, with frost warnings in the low-lying areas.

It has been several years since grape growers have had to be concerned with spring frosts. Typically, they have had to be more worried with frosts in late October. However, bud break is at least 10 to 14 days later than last year. Vineyards planted on hillsides will be more protected, especially if there's a breeze. And those planted above 1,000 feet in elevation will stand the best chance of getting through tonight without damage.

On Thursday, I walked Loess Vineyard with Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar, and he showed how he buries a cane from each vine during the winter as insurance against frost or winter damage. As he pointed out, burying canes is expensive and labor-intensive, but it pays off in years like 2004, when much of the Walla Walla Valley was devastated thanks to an autumn frost followed by a one-night winter event that saw temperatures drop 50 degrees to minus-27 in just two hours. Leonetti saw almost no damage to its Walla Walla vineyards that year while the rest of the valley struggled to find fruit sources.

(On an unrelated note, Leonetti launched its newly redesigned Web site in the past few days to mark its 30th vintage. It's beautifully done and well worth checking out.)

Of greater concern tonight are cherry and apple orchards, whose blossoms are out and vulnerable. But that doesn't put grapes out of danger. Come on: Snow on April 20?