And the award for most ignorant wine award category goes to: Seattle Magazine

I don't normally pay great attention to "wine award" issues conducted by other publications, but I was reading the latest issue of Seattle Magazine (a favorite publication of mine) and can't help but comment.

Most of the "Washington Wine" awards were fairly straight-forward (if heavy on Walla Walla picks). But when I ran across one category, I had to close the magazine and walk away.

It was for best wine with a screwcap. You have got to be kidding. As if the wine below the closure is somehow different. The closure is a decision by the winery. A screwcap is no longer a sign of cheapness; rather, it is a signal that the winery is concerned corks will adversely affect the quality of their wines.

This is like having a category for "best wine in a brown bottle."

There are a lot of ways to segment and categorize wine. This isn't one of them.

winemakers of the year (a few years ago)...

Jim Holmes was named "one of the top winemakers of the year" in a past Wine and Spirits issue which always cracked me up and would probably have won the honor in a prior year.

Why this award?

Andy, I see where you're coming from, but from a consumer viewpoint (that is, very suspicious of screwcaps and thinking that anything with a screwcap is automatically an inferior bottle) I can see where the category makes sense. Anyway, ratings of any kind, competitions of any kind, as you well know, are what sell magazines.

Screwcaps

Paul,

I think that screwcaps have become more mainstream in the past few years, as shown in the U.K.'s largest grocery chain.

The sooner the media treat screwcaps as "normal," the sooner they'll become normal.

Screwcaps or anything but Cork!

I traveled back home for a large family reunion over the week. i was in charge of getting the wines for the event since I was the "expert". We had wines from WA, CA and Argentina.(45-50 bottles) About 10 had screwcaps. As a bit of a test, I didn't open any of the wines, but let people pick what they'd like to drink. After the first round several of the ones which had corks were pulled, but nobody opened any of the ones that had screwcaps. Interesting. These people were wine drinkers, but really only enjoy wine once or twice a week. I'd consider them just below average wine drinkers. I opened some of the screw caps so people might try them since they were opened. I remember one comment was "This wine isn't bad for one with a screw cap."
I think out of wine circles, (unlike people on this list and in the biz) people still have a strong "phobia" against screwcaps. They haven't seen the light like some. The perception seems to be that the wine is of a lesser quality. Many remember they younger days when Jug wines and Boonsfarm were the wines we bought because they were cheap and its what everyone else was drinking.
I am not sure how to change the phobia about screwcaps. I think it will take sometime. Again we have seen the light and know the quality can be there. People have been drinking wine from bottles with corks in them for almost 500 years. I think if you look out of the wine circle, mainstream wine drinkers will prefer corks over screwcaps. The numbers show the trend is increasing.

David

PS I personally like screwcaps. Its just one more step away from glass bottles and a more efficient package overall.

On a side not, I went to a friends birthday back home were we grilled out and had burgers and brats. He told me he'd take care of the wine and would get some "good stuff". Yeah, he bought a case of BoonesFarm. (I'll hold any further comments on the subject.)

BTW How many here buy boxed wine? There are some great wines out there I am told, but I haven't had boxed wine since Matilda Bay back in college.

Boxed wine

Hey there!

Interesting screw top conversation and observations. I personally don't care what a bottle is closed with, as long as it works! We have been hitting our Walla Walla stash lately, and several wines had screwtops. They were all great!

Regarding box wines, we do occasionally buy boxed wines. Black Box seems to be the most successful to us, although we haven't obviously tried them all. A few that I can vouch for are the Black Box Sonoma merlot (very nice with a hint of spice!) and their Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon. It is a fairly big wine, with that classic super ripe blackberry/plum profile that Paso Robles wines tend to have, without veering towards prune or raisin. It tastes almost like there is a little residual sugar in it, but I believe it is dry. I think it is simply the very ripe fruit fooling my palate. My only quibble with this wine is that the acids could be a little brighter to offset the ripe fruit, but for the money, it does a great job. We have had a few box wines from different producers but none of them really thrilled me that much. They were serviceable, and fine for a party after we have finished the "good stuff". And for the price? You can't beat them! Plus, they do stay fresher, although I think the three weeks that the box wine producers claim is a little far fetched. About a week or so is all I would go.

There ya be! Two more cents worth...

Cheers!
Tim

plugging screw caps

It will take some doing to get long-time wine drinkers over the screw cap predjudice, but there are angles. For example, the young folks at Balboa seem to be aiming for a young, hip customer with their unusual graphics, sparce but animated web site, etc., and so, in the way that they are approaching their marketing, I can imagine the screw cap actually being a "plus" rather than a "minus" for them, especially since the low-cost closure helps them keep their wines less than $20 (and a handy flat $20, including tax, at the tasting room). Likewise the young Trey Busch at Sleight of Hand. In any case, it's such a cheap thrill to unscrew a great bottle of wine and have it in a glass in single-digit seconds...

No impact

Andy, many studies have proven that wine aging does not require any oxygen at all and happens in a reductive environment. There is some work right now looking at measuring the impact the oxygen trapped in the cork itself and measuring the phenolics from the cork in order to explain the reductive issues we have with some screwcap (are those elements acting as oxygen scavengers?). I think that most issues are due to folks that have little experience with screwcap.

If there is a category for screwcap, about one for cork (natural or not), vino locks... May be a category with "the best reliable closure" would be appropriate.

Screw Caps

When one considers all the (relatively) recent talk of screwcapped wines having some reductive issues, then this is a perfectly valid category. If this closure type requires some additional considerations and manipulations (owing to differences in oxygen ingress) in order to deliver a consistent quality and reliability, then the category is one that merits attention.

Best wines under caps

Perhaps Seattle Magazine meant "best wine with no chance of being cork tainted?" In any case, the Sleight of Hand "Spellbinder" and the Balboa "Cat's Meow" (both from Walla2 wineries) are great capped wines (and are under the $20 cap as well).

Is it true, as I think that I've read, that the screw caps can breathe, or be made to breathe, so that capped wines can be cellared for years? Or no?

Cellaring threaded wines

There are different kinds of screwcaps. One kind doesn't have any kind of ability to transfer oxygen, while another (the one used by Hogue) does.

Thus, wines under threads have just as much of a chance to age as those under corks - with the exception of cork taint.

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