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Alcohol levels in wine reviews

I came across this blog item from a blog on Washington and Oregon wines called Beyond the Bottle. The author wants to know why wine writers complain about alcohol levels, then do not include them in reviews.

Great question.

-- One answer is the alcohol level on the bottle is not necessarily accurate because wineries get a certain amount of leeway on that number. As I recall, it's 0.5%, so a wine that is listed at 13.9% might be anywhere from 13.4% to 14.4%. (By the way, you see a lot of wines listed at 13.9% because the government charges a higher tax for wines that have 14% alcohol or higher.).

-- Another answer is the information isn't always available. However, we've noted alcohol levels in our internal database for about three years, so we know exactly what alcohol level is listed on the bottle of every wine we taste and review.

-- A third answer is that this will lengthen the review, however slightly.

-- And the fourth and most important answer: We don't know how valuable listing this information is to the average reader.

Internally, the editors of Wine Press Northwest have worked out the first three and have no qualms about listing alcohols in our reviews. Now, we're curious if that added information would be of value.

Let us know because we can start this as soon as the Summer issue of Wine Press Northwest.

By aperdue at Mar 9 2008 - 9:20am | red wine | rosé | sparkling wine | white wine | aperdue's blog | 885 reads

alcohol levels in wine reviews

Yes! Alcohol levels should be included in any wine review. The idealistic reason is that the more information the consumer gets, the more informed the consumer's purchase. The practical reason is that the calories in a glass of dry wine come almost entirely from the alcohol.

As others have pointed out, lower alcohol wines usually go better with food. We've taken to drinking a <10% alcohol level albarino with light seafood rather than the the >13% alcohol sauvignon blancs we used to favor. Our heads are clearer at the end of the meal, the seafood stays in front of the wine, and we've consumed perhaps 200 fewer calories when we reach the bottom of the bottle.

By axelheystiii at Tue, 03/18/2008 - 3:39pm | login or register to post comments

Alcohol levels in wine reviews?

Yes -- I am perturbed by the high level in NW wines that has become the norm. I opened a lovely '98 from my cellar that was 13.5% and remember thinking that was high at the time I bought it, but now try finding any that are less than 14%. Most French and Italian are in the 12% range. Perhaps if publishing alcohol levels in reviews will put some pressure on winemakers to lower it.

By jhpagenkopf at Fri, 03/14/2008 - 11:24am | login or register to post comments

alcohol levels in wine reviews

Absolutely, I would like to see the alcohol levels included in reviews. I record the levels in the records I keep on wines in my cellar. Traveling in Germany and France has shown me lovely flavors that I have come to realize may be related to lower alcohol levels. I am especially disappointed in the higher levels in Oregon Pinots- I have just begun to appreciate the minerality/terroir concept and higher alcohol blunts my taste buds rather quickly.

By bloughs at Wed, 03/12/2008 - 5:28am | login or register to post comments

Should alcohol level be included in reviews?

Yes!

As my wine tastes have matured, I have been drawn strongly toward lower alcohol wines. It is not the alcohol itself that I'm looking for, it's that alcohol level is indicative of the grape growing region. Lower alcohol wines are typically from cooler climates, and show more aromatics, delicacy, and finesse. Including alcohol level in reviews would help me determine that the wine is indeed one I'd be interested in (lower alcohol, probably cooler climate), or perhaps less so (higher alcohol, probably warmer climate). (Please don't take this as a slam; I enjoy higher alcohol wines as well.)

However, more importantly, showing the alcohol level tells us more than just about the wine under review. It also gives the consumer another tool with which to evaluate the reviewer. (I am not implying that there are good and bad reviewers, only that reviewers are different.) Over the years I have learned that there are reviewers whose taste is similar to mine (e.g. Kermit Lynch), and those whose taste does not match mine (e.g. Robert Parker). Alcohol levels help me to learn about what that reviewer likes, which will help me make purchases that are more in line with what I like.

Mike Lempriere
Perennial Vintners
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://www.PerennialVintners.com/

By mikel at Tue, 03/11/2008 - 4:59pm | login or register to post comments

alcohol levels

My wife and I had the good fortune to visit Northern Italy last year. We noticed we could drink more of the wine before feeling the effects of alcohol. We were told the wine had a lower alcohol content than we were used to. If that was true, it heightened our enjoyment. The wines were wonderful to experience.

By Coug66 at Tue, 03/11/2008 - 4:48pm | login or register to post comments

alcohol level

I believe that the alcohol level in a given wine makes no difference in the quality or drinkability of that wine. We, as probably everyone else, have had great wine that was shown as 12% and as much as 16.2%. Likewise not to good wine between those same numbers. If a wine is well made and you like it, who cares what the alcohol percentage is?

By wineO at Sun, 03/09/2008 - 10:02am | login or register to post comments

alcohol levels

I agree that there are wines that are enjoyable within the range you describe, but the fact remains that higher alcohols are a result of riper grapes due to sugar content. This is the heart of the issue, which Andy effectively points out in his post, "What are the reasons for Washington's high-alcohol wines?".

I believe there is a threshold in ripeness whereupon a varietal starts to lose its signature, its true character. For example, I opened a Washington sauvignon blanc the other night, which was 14.3% alcohol. This wine was so over extracted and highly viscous that it could have been taken for a chardonnay. Whatever character of the fruit going into this bottle was gone due to high sugars that had been converted into alcohol.

When I drink any wine, I want to taste the character of the varietal - not a homogenized red wine or white wine, but one that reveals the profile of the fruit in the glass. This is the essence of the issue to me, for high alcohol usually leads one down a path of a wine that is lacking in its true character. That said, many folks don't care, for as long as the wine tastes good, they are happy.

However, over the years, I have found wines that are lower in alcohol more revealing in their character and more captivating as a result.

This isn't a matter of who's right and who's wrong, for it really comes to personal taste. And my tastes have certainly evolved over the last ten years. I used to be a big meaty Zin guy who favored the ripe fruit from Amadour County as my appellation of choice. But as I have tasted more varietals from different vineyards and winemakers, I have discovered a whole new world, especially amongst wines lower in alcohol.

Which is why I wish more reviewers disclosed alcohol levels, for this would help point me in a direction of more discoveries while avoiding those wines I know are less inclined to show their true character. And I believe it would help others like me who are on this same path.

Thad
http://beyondthebottle.com

By thad at Sun, 03/09/2008 - 7:26pm | login or register to post comments

Great feedback

That's the kind of stuff we need to hear.

Thanks!

By aperdue at Sun, 03/09/2008 - 10:22am | login or register to post comments

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