The Wine Knows

Many of us love sparkling wines year-round, yet it's the holidays when we think about bringing them out on a regular occasion. A few years ago, my good buddy Coke Roth resolved to drink more sparkling wine, and he's stuck to that, often opening a bottle before a meal.

Fortunately, you don't have to spend a lot of money on fancy Champagne to get into sparkling wine because there are plenty of high-quality bubblies right here in the Pacific Northwest.

Here's a quick guide to the main producers.

Washington

Domaine Ste. Michelle is the big dog in the Northwest. This Ste. Michelle Wine Estates property in Paterson, Wash., pumps out more than a quarter-million cases of methode champenoise sparkling wine under the direction of Rick Casqueiro. DSM makes six different bubblies. All but the Luxe are nonvintage:

- Cuvee Brut: This is a dry sparkling with plenty of fruit and classic Champagne aromas and flavors. Retails for $12 but can be found for under $10.

- Blanc de Noirs: Made from Yakima Valley Pinot Noir, this is a fairly dry rose and one of DSM's most popular. Retails for $12 but can be found for under $10.

- Blanc de Blancs: Crafted from Columbia Valley Chardonnay grapes, this is a slightly off-dry white bubbly. Retails for $12 but can be found for under $10.

- Extra Dry: In the strange world of sparkling wine terms, "extra dry" actually is a sweeter wine. This off-dry bubbly is great for parties because it appeals to the widest possible audience. Retails for $12 but can be found for under $10.

- Frizzante: DSM's newest creation, this is a sweeter sparkler. I was a bit confused by this because I expected a more Spumante-style bubbly similar to what Willamette Valley Vineyards and Silvan Ridge produce in Oregon with Muscat. Instead, it's a full sparkler left sweeter. Regardless, it's a delight. Retails for $12 but can be found for under $10.

- Luxe: This is DSM's top-of-the-line sparkler - and it's only vintage-dated bubbly. It gets the best grapes and is aged for several years before release. You'll find it for $22-$25.

Mountain Dome Winery in Spokane is run by the Manz family. Founder/owner Michael Manz recently passed away, but his son Erik has taken over the winemaking operation. The wines are classics, and the labels are fun, thanks to the whimsical drawings that include gnomes. Mountain Dome makes at least four styles of sparkling wine:

- Vintage Brut: A dry wine that is one of Mountain Dome's classics. About $20.

- NV Brut: A blend of multiple vintages, this is a deliciously dry sparkling that retails for around $15.

- Brut rose: Made with Pinot Noir, this is goes for $25.

- Cuvee Forte: Mountain Dome's finest effort, this is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It can be found for $40.

Moonlight Sparkling Wine Cellars is owned and operated by Allan Pangborn. He was Domaine Ste. Michelle's first winemaker. He also spent time at Korbel in California. Today, Pangborn makes 500 cases of bubbly in Kennewick, Wash. He makes one style:

- Cafe Metropole Blanc de Blanc is named for a weekly news magazine about Paris because, as Pangborn says, "The wine I made is perfect for sipping in a European cafe while watching the world pass by." It retails for $20.

Oregon

Argyle Winery in Dundee is run by Rollin Soles, a rowdy Texan who came to Oregon to make some of the finest sparkling wine anywhere. He has achieved that.

- Blanc de Blancs is from 100% Chardonnay and is finished in a dry, brut style. Retails for $30.

- Knudsen Vineyard Brut is rare for the Northwest, as it's a vineyard-designated bubbly from an estate vineyard. It's made with Pinot Noir and retails for $35.

- Brut is made from Chardonnay (55%) and Pinot Noir (45%). It retails for $25.

- Rose is a Pinot Noir-based bubbly that is beautiful to gaze at and drink. It goes for $25.

Domaine Meriwether is the brainchild of Jack Bagdade and pays homage to the Lewis and Clark expedition. The wines tend to be named after members of the Corps of Discovery, and they are made in a classic style with Oregon grapes.

- Discovery Cuvee Brut is a dry sparkler made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Retails for $16.

- Capt. William Clark Cuvee Brut is another dry-style bubbly that is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. It retails for $25.

- Th. Jefferson Cuvee Brut Prestige is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay and was made in limited quantities. Retails for $30.

- Fort Clatsop Blanc de Blancs is made with Chardonnay and retails for $25.

- Olivia's Cuvee Brut Rose. While this is 100% Chardonnay, it gets its rosy color from a bit of nonsparkling Pinot Noir that was blended it prior to secondary fermentation.

Soter Vineyards. Tony Soter's claim to fame came in the Napa Valley, where he founded Etude Wines in 1982. The Oregon native returned home to start this high-end operation in Yamhill County. He is planting vines in the Yamhill-Carlton District. He makes two sparkling wines in addition to three still wines.

- Beacon Hill Brut Rose is made with 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir from his Beacon Hill Vineyard. It sells for $40.

- Beacon Hill Blanc de Blancs is made with Chardonnay. It likely will not be released until 2007 or 2008.

British Columbia

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery is run by Harry McWatters and is B.C.'s most visible producer. Sumac is now owned by Constellation, but McWatters is still leading the charge for Sumac Ridge. One of his favorite things to do is saber a bottle of Steller's Jay, in which he uses a big knife to remove the top of a bottle of bubbly. It's an amazing sight. Sumac makes a vast array of wines, and three of them are bubblies.

- Steller's Jay Brut is Sumac's signature wine and often one of the best bubblies in the Northwest. It's named after the province's official bird. Retails for $25 CDN and is available in half-bottles.

- Pinnacle is a new sparkler that celebrates the winery's 25th anniversary. It's made from 100% Pinot Noir and retails for $30 CDN.

- Sparkling Shiraz is a rare red bubbly made with Syrah. It was released this month.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna is owned and operated by Steve Cipes. He built a scale model of the Cheops Pyramid, where his wine is "pyramid aged" to take advantage of the earth's natural energy. Cipes believes wines aged in the pyramid taste better. He makes a wide variety of still, ice and sparkling wines.

- Cipes Brut is a dry-style sparkler that retails for $23 CDN.

- Cipes Pinot Noir Brut retails for $25 CDN.

Idaho

Ste. Chapelle. Idaho's largest winery is famous for its whites and gaining attention for its reds. Its delicious sparkling wines have yet to spark imagination, even though they are some of the best around.

- Sparkling Riesling is a sweeter-style sparkler that is perfect for a celebration, appetizer or dessert. Best of all, it retails for $10.

More bubbly

A lot of Northwest wineries make small amounts of sparkling wines, and these can be some of the most interesting because they're made in such small lots. I've found bubblies at Secret House Winery near Eugene, Ore., Tefft Cellars in the Yakima Valley, Chatter Creek in Seattle/Woodinville and Arbor Crest in Spokane. If you happen across a bottle of sparkling wine in your travels from wineries that don't normally make it, this is a rare treat indeed and should be purchased.

Cheers!